-from heart of the hills campground, take lake dawn road out to the elwha river. the road won't be marked well and it won't be paved for part of the way. you may see clear cuts and a make-shift shooting range, but you'll also see homes nestled along the lake and forest and meadow. and no other cars.
-drive out to the elwha dam and walk around. stop by the river and watch it rush along. notice the parts of the river that go faster, that bend, that are still.